Peach or apricot? Peach variety apricot description

Most of our country's gardeners have heard of peaches and apricots, which are larger in size, smell like pineapple and have an unsurpassed taste and distinctive sweetness. In this article we will talk about this sort of apricot, which is also called the peach hybrid.

Variety description

The tree is similar in appearance to apricot, refers to the medium-growth variations. The maximum height of the tree rarely exceeds 3 meters, so the collection of products can be considered quite comfortable.

The krone has a rounded shape, does not differ in thickness. These differences help to determine the varietal identity. As for the shoots, they are very thin, annual, require annual pruning. The color of the leaves and bark is identical to the "standards" of apricot.

The most interesting thing is, of course, the fruits. Peach apricots have an increased size, more rounded shape and differ in average weight (about 50-60 g). The color of the fruit is bright yellow, during maturation a reddish stain may form, but only in rare cases.

Did you know? Apricot juice has bactericidal properties. It is recommended to drink it regularly to people who have had putrefactive processes in the stomach.
Apricot "Peach" has a similar description with pineapple, so it is often confused. Pineapple version is large and has a brighter taste.

Characteristics of apricots

Flowering occurs in mid-May, which makes it possible to obtain a large number of products, as temperature drops and night frosts are unlikely at this time of year.

The tree begins to bear fruit only in the 4th year. If all the rules and regulations are followed, then the first crop will not be covered with green, and you can try the first peach apricots at the end of July. The main time for harvesting is mid-August.

Learn more about such varieties of apricot as "Red Cheek", "Prince of March", "Triumph", "Black Velvet", "Kuban Black", "Black Prince".
As for the yield, it is not the greatest in comparison with other varieties, but also covers the cost of caring for the tree. On average, an adult tree with a developed crown can collect up to 140 kg of fruits for the entire season.

It should be noted that if the tree does not receive enough moisture during fruit ripening, then ripe apricots will begin to crumble and deteriorate quickly.

This is also due to the fact that the fruits are quite heavy and the slightest breath of wind can "drop" them. For this reason, planting crops in windy areas is not recommended.

Advantages and disadvantages

You could see most of the advantages and disadvantages in the description and description, but it is worth discussing this point in more detail.

Minuses:

  • products mature late;
  • tendency to fall;
  • annual pruning and thinning of the crown is necessary;
  • dependence on moisture during the period of ripening.
Pros:
  • good winter hardiness (in case of freezing, the tree is quickly restored);
  • late flowering, which allows planting crops in colder climates;
  • the tree is self-fertile (does not require planting several trees for pollination);
  • high yield;
  • drought tolerance (except for the period of ripening);
  • universal use of products;
  • the tree is resistant to diseases;
  • Apricots are well transported over long distances.

As a result, without any comparison, we can say that the positive qualities of this variety are many times more than the negative ones. Most varieties suffer from spring winds and night frosts, which are not terrible peach option.

Long shelf life and high transportability make apricots a good option for supplying to the market.

Did you know? Apricot oil, obtained from the seeds of not bitter varieties, is used as a basis for many ointments and creams. Also used to create injection solutions.

Site selection and landing time

Before you buy a sapling, you need to find a suitable place for it, and then calculate the time of planting. We will talk about all this further.

Lighting and location

As mentioned above, choosing a windy place is definitely not worth it, because, in addition to shedding ripe fruit, you will encounter broken weak young shoots that obviously will not benefit the immature tree.

Planting is necessary so that the place was closed from the north and west winds and it was very well lit throughout the day.

Of course, you can plant a tree near any building, so that the light reflected from the walls warms the tree even more, but in this case you may regret when apricot roots begin to “prop up” the foundation in a decade.

Also note that the height of groundwater should be at the level of 3-4 meters, so in some cases you can consider the option of a hill or a small hill on the south side.

Important! Do not land in lowlands or in places of stagnant melt water.
As for landing time, it is best to do everything in spring. Autumn planting is less preferable, since the tree may not get stronger before the frost, which in the early years is very dangerous for the crop.

Soil type

The soil should not only be fertile, but also have good drainage properties. Loamy or sandy soils will do, but the tree will not grow on sandy and purely clay soils.

The acidity of the soil should be neutral, a weak acid reaction is allowed. Strongly acidic soil must necessarily lime.

Important! On chernozems that are poorly irrigated with water, apricot produces a weak crop, which ripens much later.

Planting seedlings

After you have chosen a good place on the site and purchased a sapling, you should take care of the preparation of the pit and the direct planting.

A few days before landing we prepare a pit. The optimal dimensions are 80 x 80 cm. We preserve the upper part of the soil and remove the lower part. Mix the top layer with humus or compost, add 500 g of superphosphate and a little wood ash. Mix thoroughly to evenly distribute all fertilizers. When planting, place the seedling in the center, on a small hill, which is formed from the prepared soil mixture. Next, straighten the roots and verify the location of the root collar.

It should be noted that, unlike most trees, which can rot, if the root neck is in the ground, apricot, on the contrary, requires its depth by 5-10 cm, depending on the type of soil (on sandy soils, we deepen it more strongly).

In the process of filling the landing pit with soil mixture, lightly tamp it down to fill the air pockets. After finishing, tamp the soil and spill it with water so that the soil will soak up to approximately one meter deep.

In case you plant several trees in a row, be sure to leave between them 4 meters of space, so that in a few years you will not have to cut off the intertwined crowns, which will strongly shade each other.

As for the mulching of the tree circle, it is here at your discretion. If climate presents unpleasant "surprises" to you, when after a strong daytime heat the temperature can drop by more than 20 ° C, then it is better to protect the roots from such contrast.

Also, mulch is needed if you want to retain moisture in the soil. This is especially true for sandy soils that do not trap moisture.

Tree care

After planting, we need to pay maximum attention to the tree, so that it will quickly begin and grow, and also survive the first winter. Next, we discuss the main aspects of peach apricot care.

Watering and feeding

Although apricot is drought-resistant, but you should not grow it under stressful conditions. You need to either monitor the soil moisture by inserting a half-meter stake into the ground, or lay mulch and practically forget about watering.

Checking the humidity at depth is necessary in order not to overwet the roots. On hot days, the upper 5-10 cm of soil can be dry as a stone, but at the depth of the roots moisture will be present in sufficient quantity.

As a result, if you irrigate, the soil near the roots will turn into a swamp, and rotting or fungal damage is possible.

It is also always worth remembering that watering should be done early in the morning or after sunset, or cover the damp stem with some loose material so that it does not dry out in a matter of minutes. Let's discuss feeding. In the first year, the tree does not need additional feeding, since you have planted enough organic matter and mineral water in the planting hole, but already in the spring of the second year you need to pack about 15 kg of humus together with 135 g of superphosphate, 45 g of ammonium nitrate and 45 g of potassium chloride.

Of course, if it is easier for you to use the complex fertilizer, which contains the NPK complex, then you can use it, however, while maintaining the dosage of each element.

In the 5th year, we need to seal up already 25 kg of humus or compost under a tree to satisfy its “appetites”. Also, 90 g of saltpeter, 190 g of superphosphate and 55 g of potassium chloride or complex fertilizer are added.

Important! After making any fertilizer tree be sure to shed water in large quantities.

Cropping and crown formation

The first few years it is better not to touch our tree, so as not to injure it and not to inhibit growth. Only in the springtime, inspect the apricot for the presence of dry, diseased and damaged branches. They are subject to removal.

In order to form a "convenient" tree, we need to remove the rungs that grow inside the crown. This is done in order to thin it, thereby increasing the amount of sunlight that falls on the lower shoots. The crown should grow in width and to a lesser extent in height, so that it is convenient to harvest.

To make it clearer, after pruning the crown of an adult tree should be as if pressed in the center. Side shoots should be taller and denser than central ones.

Did you know? In the first place in the world production of apricots is Turkey. This country annually supplies the world market with about 700 thousand tons of fruits.

Diseases and pests

Let's start with the diseases of this culture.

The following are the main "sores" that affect apricot trees:

  • Monilioz. It seems that a fire was made under a tree: the flowers and leaves wither, as if they lacked water or were dried on an open fire. Wood cracks, there is a gradual withering and abscission of leaves.

    To destroy the fungus, trees are treated after flowering with the preparation Horus or Teldor, which can be used during flowering.

  • Valsa mushroom. It looks like an orange ulcer. Near the ulcer markedly strong release of wood resin. It may seem to an uninitiated person that the tree has simply suffered physical damage and is trying to tighten the “wounds”.

    You can fight the fungus with the same “Switch” preparation, which is used for treating wood 3 weeks before harvest.

  • Ring pox. Fruits become bloated, visible on dark red spots. It seems that apricots are covered with freckles, which are arranged in the form of rings.

    Fruits quickly ripen and fall, and their taste leaves much to be desired. It is rather difficult to cure a viral disease, so it is easier to carry out prevention or destroy products. You can process copper sulfate, but it does not always give a positive result.

  • Ribbon mosaic. Yellow stripes appear along the leaves along the veins, which later turn into "laces", and the leaf itself dies off.

    With a massive defeat, the tree can stop growing and even die. You can fight this viral disease with the same copper sulfate, but you will not get 100% of the result.

Go to the pests. The main parasites that plague the tree:

  • Aphid. With this parasite everyone is familiar, as it affects everything that grows in the garden. Aphids are carried by ants, so you should pay attention to their colonies. To poison aphid is only as a last resort, when it hits the whole tree.

    The best option - liquid soap, diluted in water, or infusion of garlic. Wood ash is also sometimes used. In case the tree is covered with parasites, it should be treated with Fitoverm or Fufanon.

  • Small moth. For us, the danger is not a butterfly, but a caterpillar that settles inside the fruit and eats away the core.

    Of course, the fruit after the removal of the worm can be eaten and the damage caused is not so great, but no one wants to find the worm in the apricot while eating it. To combat moth, use a 0.2% solution of Chlorofos or a 0.5% solution of Entobacterin.

  • Listovertka.The moth eats the leaves of the tree, later tying them into tubes, in which it hides itself from danger. The bark of apricots is covered with cracks, there is a gum development.

    The leafworm can be fought with a concentrated solution of "Chlorofos" after harvesting. And the bark of the tree is better to clean and burn.

This apricot variety combines peach size, excellent apricot flavor and light pineapple flavor. Now you know what a hybrid of peach and apricot is, why a variety has such a name and how not to confuse it with a pineapple option.

Watch the video: Unboxing My Bare Root Peach & Apricot Fruit Trees (March 2024).